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cptnspanky

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cptnspanky last won the day on December 21 2018

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About cptnspanky

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  • Birthday 04/25/1985

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    toledo, ohio

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  1. cptnspanky

    @Muttley000 the driver is at least an external power supply, so if it ever did fail should be easily replaceable
  2. cptnspanky

    Think I could reserve a walt Disney frag for the buckeye swap? lol
  3. cptnspanky

    Yeah the storm is kind of lame with just one prime....on the hydra 52's it looks much cooler, but really needs the lights enclosed in a canopy to get full effect
  4. cptnspanky

    you could always go with the man-made options.....more eco-friendly and should be cured in a pest free environment
  5. cptnspanky

    Honestly im not sure yet....i generally goto bed before any of that since i have to get up for work at 4:30 in the morn. I dont think it will be too bright though...i have watched the sunrise/sunset feature and it dims so much that you can barely see that its even on before it shuts off.
  6. cptnspanky

    This is my own mix since i dont really have any coral in this tank....more of for aesthetics
  7. cptnspanky

    Wow, hell of a tank there! Where are you located? Edit: my bad, i missed the north of swanton part. How much are you asking for....well any of the stick colonies?
  8. cptnspanky

    still have pearlberry and pink lemonade?
  9. cptnspanky

    The prime does not come with a mount, so you will have to buy one separately. cant really say how well coral does as there isn't really anything in this tank... But I can say over the kids 29 gallon it sure looks nice, and the sunrise/sunset is nice.
  10. cptnspanky

    Hydroids are gone. I used the kalkwasser, and went back a day later to do a water change and suck out the settled kalk....definitely killed them. I did this in 2 rounds, but i did too much at once and had a major alk spike in the tank. So the spike killed everything that didnt get hit directly. Lost more corals but hopefully its what i needed to get back on track
  11. cptnspanky

    Just wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas! Hope you all eat too much, laugh a lot, drive safely, and just have a good time with your families!
  12. cptnspanky

    Well when your setting it up, you will test the alk of the effluent coming out of the reactor and test your tanks calcium and alk. so at about the same time the following day test again and you will adjust accordingly. Remember to start low and slowly increase. Testing the effluent coming out is just a good way of getting yourself in the ballpark output number and to get a general relationship with how your adjustments are affecting the output. As far as taking out large amounts, I haven't dealt with that other than recently with the loss of many corals. My frag system isn't tied together with my display. however I have dealt with the opposite which is adding a sudden increase of alk demand. The calcium #'s don't really seem to be all that important, the alk is the real concern. So honestly its rare, and I mean really rare that I test for anything anymore. A lot of people would not agree with my methods, but I feel like when you've had a coral a while you can just look at it and tell when things are off and simply by applying what I know has changed I react accordingly. usually with a large addition I add a little kalk to my topoff water to counter the extra load, and things balance out after a day or so. If my lps isn't opening up as big as normal its usually bc my alk is a touch low. so I check my bubble counter and output of reactor to make sure nothing weird happened, and tweak the ph of the reactor a tenth or so lower. I would imagine most of you guys test more and can be more scientifically accurate than myself and simply adjust the other way if removing coral....or just kill the reactor for a day or so. The over time numbers don't generally change quickly once your not making big stock changes...so adjustments should be slow as well, and wont do any real harm if your not doing it right away.
  13. cptnspanky

    Also I would be very surprised if that reactor would be big enough to support a heavy sps load on your tank let alone anything near a 300 gallon. remember you can always dial it down but you can only output so much. The regulator I wouldn't trust either
  14. cptnspanky

    I can chime in here a bit. having a calcium reactor has been an amazing addition to my 300! But when shopping around I strongly recommend against buying most every aquarium c02 regulator. Instead I suggest you get on ebay and pick up a stainless (brass works too but will corrode over time) dual STAGE regulator that is designed for corrosive gasses (others will work but the gaskets internally can fail over time) A lot of regulators are marketed as dual GUAGE regulators and that is very different from dual stage. A lot of the horror stories from calcium reactors are because of the regulator being used. So heres the difference between the 2 and why its important; A single stage regulator maintains a maximum pressure for gas flow in a single step, but as your tank is used up the supplied pressure decreases which means you will have to tinker with your valve much more frequently. It also means as you reach the end of your tank and the pressure drops significantly it results in a lot of c02 dumping into your reactor (as in everything that's left in the tank) Where as on a dual stage regulator, this is done in 2 steps which results in an almost set it and forget it scenario. This is because in the first stage the pressure is set, and the 2nd stage is where the flow is set. The only variance ive seen in c02 flow is at the very end of your tank, and it can not release more gas than you have set, only less. This is where your ph controller (in your case I believe its an apex) will alert you that your ph has risen above your specified range inside the reactor. On my regulator I used the bubble counter, needle valve, and solenoid valve from a Milwaukee unit and the bare dual stage regulator I got on ebay. ( a good solenoid valve is very important as well) Next is on to the reactor itself, I only have a single chamber reactor but I can definitely see the potential of a dual. With a 2nd chamber the ph of the effluent is increased a little more before being added to the tank which also makes the whole thing more efficient as well. You will need a ph probe, Neptune has two different ones now and I have been using the double junction as its supposed to be more accurate over a longer period of time. Don't cheap out on the probe, as its the key to maintaining a good ph reading in your reactor, which makes the difference between success and failure. Your reactor should come with a circulation pump so this shouldn't be a major concern other than making sure its not a cheapo pump that comes with it. My reactor came with a blue line pump. Lastly you need a feed pump. A lot of people like and recommend using a peristaltic pump because of its consistency over time, however I went cheap on this one and got a cobalt aquatics (mj-900 equivalent) and a little plastic air line valve to restrict outcoming effluent. setup seems pretty intimidating when your considering it all and especially looking at the hoses, and all the equipment, but its a lot simpler than what it appears. You can do a lot of things to adjust your output like changing the set ph in the reactor and adjusting the effluent flow output. Different brand medias start to dissolve at different ph values as well, so once you get things dialed in with one I suggest stick to that brand. Eventually if the Neptune trident ever releases I plan to put my dosing pumps back in place and let them make small adjustments as needed while my reactor does all the big work.
  15. cptnspanky

    Any chance you could throw up a pic of the light and particularly how the mount sits on the tank? Trying to figure out if that will mount to my rimmed 29 tank, and/or my frag swap tank. And one last question, how old is it?
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