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MBS

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MBS last won the day on July 23 2016

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About MBS

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    http://www.marinebiosystems.com

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    Headland, AL

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  1. Jeff is absolutely right with this. If D is not tight, the return pump chamber will run at the same level as the refugium. You can definitely do it that way. However, if you want the refugium to be at a specific water level then you'll want to make sure D is water tight. The pump running dry quickly may not be a bad thing. That happens because the return pump space is very low volume and it is the only place where the water level can fluctuate. So, it basically absorbs all the evaporation in your system. To use this to your advantage, put your ATO water level sensor in this chamber. Doing this will mean that you are measuring your water level in the most sensitive chamber of your system. This keeps salinity fluctuations to a minimum. Have your ATO add water back upstream of the pump so it has time to mix in before it get pumped back into your display tank.
  2. You may want to consider adding a baffle E to the right of baffle D. Water flowing over D will create bubbles that your return pump could pickup. Adding that extra trap in there will go a long way to eliminating that. Putting 1/8" x 1" vertical slots near the top of D will help too. That does 2 things, it controls the flow of the water so it's not just spilling over the flat top edge and it acts as a course filter which will keep things in your refugium that you want to stay in your refugium. You'll need a CNC machine to cut those. If you have access to one I have a VCarve Pro file I could send you that we use to cut those. In the attached photo, the bottom left plate shows this.
  3. ... oh... and most of these things have been in the tanks for over a year so they are well adjusted to tank life - this is not 'fresh off the plane' stuff that may or may not acclimate.
  4. in the frag tank I have an acanathophyllia (meat coral) - rare deep red one. Was close to $300 wholesale. Also have a large red cynaria (button coral) that needs a new home. Purple stylo, ultra acans... there's just a bunch of stuff here that needs to go. If a group of you wanted to come out say on saturday I'd be willing to work a deal to move it all. Anything not gone by the end of the weekend will probably go to one of the local LFS's.
  5. I'd like to get $1000 out of the whole thing, but I'm willing to entertain any offer and I'd even be willing to let you pick other stuff out of the frag tank - there's a ton in there too.. At this point I'm looking to find a good home for this, not make a buck.
  6. This is some of whats in the tank... there's definitely more - for example I think there's at least 4 or 5 ultra rock anenomes but they are not all in photo range. In the OP I forgot to mention the big lobo - about 4 or 5". Also forgot the 3 green plate corals. There are two pipe organs one is large (pictured) about 6", the other is closer to 2.5" or 3"
  7. The frag tank is acrylic - 8 ft x 16" deep x 10" tall, its separated into 4 equal compartments and the separators have flow slots in them so the water can move through the whole tank (corner overflows at both ends). I have it running off a 55 gallon tank as a sump with a large live rock rubble chamber. There's a hydor ATO, and a large Sicce return pump which is less then a year old. Also have 2 4 tube x 4' THO lights - one is an aquatic life with its own timer. Cant remember the brans on the other other one but its running on an external timer.
  8. Taking the wife and kids on the adventure of a lifetime and there's no room for this in RV. Its a 6 month old Marineland 90RR in flawless condition. This is a complete setup - tank, lights, skimmer, UV, ATO, sump, etc. There's so much stuff in this tank I'm sure I'll miss something but here's what I can remember off the top of my head,,, Hardware: Marineland 90RR - no scratches Marineland Black Stand Bubble Magus C7 Skimmer 2 x Maxspect 420R 16K LEDS 20L Glass Sump with MBS dividers Magdrive 9.5 Return Pump UV Sterilzer Pukani Live Rock (Branching and Shelf) Sand bottom Livestock (non-coral): Blue Hippo Tang Clownfish Royal Gramma Purple Dottyback Pink Spot Watchman Goby Brittle Star 2 x Skunk Cleaner Shrimp Bluegreen Reef Chromis Sally Lightfoot Crab Livestock (coral) Hammers (2) Duncans (4) Favia Pipe Organ (2) Gonioepora Alveopora Xenia Ultra Rock Anenomes Ricordea Yuma Ricordea Florida Blastos Blue Sympodium Zoa (several Ultra Types) Palys Candy Cane (2 types) Gold Frogspawwn (2) .. and others.. Must sell... take any reasonable offer . Prefer to sell all together. I have other corals (zoas, hammers, acanthophylia, red button, and a bunch of ultra frags - and a 8' x 15" x 12" frag tank that has to go too..
  9. MBS

    3D Printing

    For the price that looks like an interesting machine. It appears they have lead screws for the Z axis... which will be more accurate then the threaded rod typically used on cheaper models. It also says it has a heated bed ... which you need for printing ABS. If you want to print stuff for water contact you can't use PLA since it is biodegradable. The water itself doesnt dissolve it, bacteria in the water eat it - which would be bad in an aquarium setting. Personally, i would buy something assembled and proven from a reputable company. If your goal is to print stuff and not spend days assembling and then debugging both the hardware and software then the extra money will look cheap in the long run. I built my first one from a kit. It took about 3 days to build and worked ok when completed. it never worked well enough to reliably produce consistent parts. I think to do thst you need something thats better engineered then a hobby kit. I'd look at the lulzbot taz 6 ... or one of the airwolf 3d units. I have a Taz 5... and it works great. One thing i would definitey recommend... if you go with the cheaper unit then go to Mcmaster Carr and get a sheet of PEI to put on the bed (the lulzbot machines come with it). Its like a miracle material ... when heated ABS and PLA stick to it like glue, but when the print is done and cooled the part pops right off. I've found no other way to reliably keep parts stuck down on the bed during a print... and i've tried just anout everything As far as workflow is concerned you'll need a 3-D modeling program that can export stl files to build your model.. i use Form-z. The full version is expensive and probably overkill for most things but they do offer a free light version targeted at 3d printer hobbiest. The interface is funky and has a steep learning curve, but its incredibly powerful once you get the hang of it. Once you get your .stl model you import that into a gCode generator like Slicr. Thats free and it converts the model into the gCode commands the printer understands. One more advantage to the pre-built machines like the lulzbot taz or the airwolf 3d is that they have slicr profiles available specifically for the printers. Without that... there would be a lot of trial and error to get good gCode files that work with your printer. Getting those profiles right can be a frustrating and time consuming task. No matter which way you go, its a very rewarding machine to work with so take your time and enjoy it.
  10. I run tanks with both and have a couple different leds running. Right now i have an 8 foot frag tank which is lit by (2) 4 foot 4 bulb t5 fixtures. Other tanks have maxspect 420r, another with a AI vega and another with a kessil 160. the kessil and maxpects are basically blue/white. The vega adds red and green. The vega also produces a much deeper blue then other two. As far as comparison is concerned (LED vs T5) i would say the t5 is way more idiot proof. About all you can change is height off the water and length of time on/off (and i guess bulb spectrum/manufacturer - but there is a standard ATI bulb combo most folks use so thats pretty much worked out). In either case .. with LED you have intensity over time for each channel (color) your light outs out. My experience has been ... and i tend to follow a blue majority, white mid, and green/red (or yellow) minority. Favoring blue during ramp up/down times. For example, my vega was setup over a 12 hour cycle. It would blue only ramp up the first 3 hours to 70% and ramp down The last three hours. Once the blues were at full, whites would ramp to 50% and red/green to 30% over a 1/2 hour period. Coraline algae likes blue light and this tank was covered in it.... had the scrape the glass every few days to knock down the buildup my maxspects i do about the same but there's no red/green to ramp. The key i think is that you can throw a lot of blue at it, but keep the whites 20 - 40% lower. All the problems i've seen (scorched coral, algae, etc) seemed corellated to too much white. Reds and greens can be used by corals too so if i buy new lights i try to get ones that have those but algea loves red so use it minimally to just adjust the look of the tank. Overall growth wise I dont see much of a difference between t5s and LEDs when i set them up like this. At that point water quality becomes the big factor. one other thing with LED is people tend to over power their tanks. You don't need a 120 or 160 watt fixture to light a 29 biocube. My vega was over a 29 and i think its rated at 80 watts and at peak i was only using about 50% of that across all the channels combined. Theres such a heavy emphasis on the need for tons of light in the hobby that i think a lot of people way overdue it and have disasterous results. Its very easy to have that problem with LEDs.
  11. Two little fishes recommends storing them damp. I don't. Usually, i take them out, maybe a quick rince with RO/DI to get the salt water off and then let them air dry. I'd rinse them again with RO/DI real well once again before using them - especially if they have a brownish bacterial crust on them from the last use... that will blow out in your tank if you dont remove it. Using vinigar would kill the bacteria off pretty well, but so does drying so its probably not necessary.
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