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  1. Zombie Tang, aka The Swimming Dead!!! LOL
  2. or it could just grow up through and look cool.
  3. The one concern I have is the purple coral above it (monti cap?). It's going to continue growing outward and depending on which one gets there first, either shade it or grow into it.There could be a battle.
  4. Looks like it died about 3 days ago. I like it.
  5. BFitz


    How about 3 more of the same kind of anthias? They're a schooling fish. Just make sure you get all females, since yours has probably turned male
  6. Unless I'm missing or misunderstanding something, since you've got the drain about 2" from the bottom, when the pump shuts off (power outage, etc.) your water level will drop to about 2" from the bottom of the fuge . Not to mention that you won't be able to keep the water level constant if you're trying to match the input of the pump to the water draining out of the bottom. If you had both the input and return up at the top, with the return where you want the water level to be, so it's the overflow that drains back out, that would work. Or if you kept your original planned location and then you run the drain line back up to where you want the water level to be and add an air break at the top of it, and then run it back down into your display tank. It would still be noisy, though, unless you did a herbie or bean animal or maybe stockman standpipe drain. Plus there could be microbubbles generated by the water running back down the drain pipe. It's still a cool idea, and can work very well, it just seems like you just need to re-think the return a bit.
  7. Yeah, the only other thing I've seen mention of it affecting was occasionally weakening some hair algae. Everything else I've got seems happy. I'll try to do a thread on it.
  8. Watching my bryopsis continue to die a fast and (I hope VERY) painful death from flucanazole. Friday will be day 4, which is supposed to be when it really starts getting its butt kicked. I was already starting to see die-off the next morning, and this is today (day 3). Note the difference in color between the bryopsis and non-bryopsis.
  9. When I worked in a LFS many years ago, it was pretty common for our tomato clowns (all WC at that time) to host in our condys.
  10. A UV unit will kill whatever passes through it (ONLY what passes through it) below whatever its kill flow rate is for that particular organism. There will be a table in the documentation of your UV with the max flow rate for lethal dosages for all kinds of organisms, various algae to various bacteria, flagellates, pods, etc. If your UV is plumbed into a flow circuit that has pods passing through it, and the flow rate is slow enough to give them a lethal dose of UV, it will kill them. If your pods do not get sucked into that circuit,so they don't pass through the UV, it will do nothing to them. Unless maybe the pods are feeding on smaller organisms that do get sucked into the UV's circuit and get killed and that reduced food supply causes a reduction in pods. Otherwise, it will have no effect on your pod population. If you size and set up a UV correctly, it can also actually clear up an ich infestation. I've had a 40 watt unit plumbed into a small blue line pump on my 150 for over 10 years. Seems like every 2 - 3 years something goes to crap, I neglect the tank for too long or something, and I get an outbreak of ich. I fire up the pump and then the UV, and that's it. The adult parasites drop off to reproduce, the resulting billions and billions of free-swimming larvae (trophonts?) get sucked into the UV, they get a lethal dose, and no re-infestation. I leave it running for like 2 months after the fish are clean, just to be safe, and then shut it off for a few more years. Since I started this, I've never had that second infestation a week or 2 later that is usually the one that wipes out your fish, and have never lost a fish to ich. As long as they are strong enough to survive until the first batch falls off, they'll make it.
  11. BFitz

    Red Goniopora

    @Lazylivin ships. And he had just cut up a bunch of frags of the red goni last week that should be ready to go before long.
  12. Not to mention that you would also need the ID of the gasket to somehow squeeze into the threads on the flange where they first engage with the threads of the nut, and seal off that leak path as well. Which it's not going to do.
  13. Not to mention that you would also need the ID of the gasket to somehow squeeze into the threads on the flange where they first engage with the threads of the nut, and seal off that leak path as well. Which it's not going to do.
  14. The letter "P"!! LOL Actually, it looks like the DM has an adjustable flow rate, where they DMP is fixed. Both are apparently 25 psi, though.
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