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Joe

Rodi Booster pump

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Have my booster pump hooked up. Reading 25 psi without the pump. Which is why I wasn’t able to make much water with the other unit. But now it’s reading 95psi. And I’m pretty sure I read somewhere anything over 90psi is bad for your RO membrane. I have tried to adjust the pump bet 95psi is the lowest can get it to go. Could it be a bad pump?

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49 minutes ago, Muttley000 said:

If it won’t adjust like it’s supposed to I’d get with the manufacturer. I’m not sure 95 is going to be a problem though

I’ve sent a message to the distributor. I’m going to let them figure it out. But when I run the system, I am not getting 0 tds end product. So I wonder if the pressure is so high that it’s pushing the water through the  stages to fast.? I am also not able to run the second stage di yet as I misread what all came with what I ordered. So I had to get an additional di canister. That’ll be here tomorrow. We will see if I get 0 tds in the end then. But I still sorry about the pressure. 

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My booster also runs at 95psi, when I shut the valve off it settles around 60. My understanding g is the higher pressure flushes the membrane better giving better performance. At least I was told. 

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4 hours ago, Muttley000 said:

What was the max?  I've never heard of a booster pump set that low.

The last pump I had before, I was dumb and sold everything thinking I could just walk away from the hobby, it ran about 65psi. My pressure when the pump is off is 25psi. 

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My pump was so high when I first started it it damn near snapped the needle off of the guage. My pressure without the pump on and just street pressure pushing through the pump is 60. 

According to buckeye hydro on another forum. Standard for household plumbing is 80psi max. He said the membranes are Better at higher pressures. Hence why we use boosters to get to the 80 range minimum and a little higher isn’t to bad. The weakest part of a RODI system is the clear filter housings.  That’s why you plumb the booster after your initial sediment filters. Just before the membrane. The only clear housing taking pressure then is your DI housing and that is residual from your membrane. I think 95psi sounds fine unless you start seeing unusually high tds or seem to use a ton of   resin. 

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I never received a reply email from BRS so I called them. They said it sounds as if the pump is defective. Said ideal pressure is 60-65 psi. So I’m sending the pump back. But something isn’t right. I can’t seem to maintain 0tds coming out. That’s with 2 Di canisters. So I’m hoping it’s the pump. But I am thinking now that I have a bad ro membrane as well. 

Stage 1 = 1 micron sediment filter

stage 2&3 = 1 micron carbon block

stage 4 = 75 gpd RO membrane 

stage 5&6 = color changing DI

everything is brand new. No way I should get anything more than 0tds. 

I am getting 35 after the ro and 4 coming out of both DI canisters. 

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It sounds like you may be bypassing a seal. I had the same issue here in Dayton. I changed my membrane housing and added a flush kit. I may have solved it on accident, but it fixed the creep. We have had water boil advisories here which definitely caused higher TDS for us for a week or so also

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13 minutes ago, castlet67 said:

It sounds like you may be bypassing a seal. I had the same issue here in Dayton. I changed my membrane housing and added a flush kit. I may have solved it on accident, but it fixed the creep. We have had water boil advisories here which definitely caused higher TDS for us for a week or so also

I did check to be sure it was sealing. But I think the high pressure may be blowing water past the seals. 

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9 hours ago, Fishoutofwater said:

My pump was so high when I first started it it damn near snapped the needle off of the guage. My pressure without the pump on and just street pressure pushing through the pump is 60. 

According to buckeye hydro on another forum. Standard for household plumbing is 80psi max. He said the membranes are Better at higher pressures. Hence why we use boosters to get to the 80 range minimum and a little higher isn’t to bad. The weakest part of a RODI system is the clear filter housings.  That’s why you plumb the booster after your initial sediment filters. Just before the membrane. The only clear housing taking pressure then is your DI housing and that is residual from your membrane. I think 95psi sounds fine unless you start seeing unusually high tds or seem to use a ton of   resin. 

I have my pump plumbed at the beginning due to only having 25 psi entering the the RO membrane and it’s recommended to have at least 60psi. 

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Measure TDS before and after the membrane.  The documentation should tell you the rejection rate, but it takes a minute to get going well.  After TDS  divided by before membrane TDS should be close to your rated rejection rate.

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Good point Muttley. I know our TDS here is 150 to 160. The rejection rate is close for me. I did add an addition mixed bed resin after the anion an cation resin cartridge and doubled what I get out of my resin. I dont test for tds until I've ran my bypass for 5 minutes or so. My sister with my pump is always 90s when running. The pump has a set screw that doesn't really adjust pressure. It's really a bypass screw which is a little different. It will show a lower pressure when the pump is off.

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Tds going in is 264 the first time I ran it I was getting 8 out of the ro. After running for a while, it went up to 35. Rejection rate is “up to” 99%.  

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2 hours ago, Joe said:

Tds going in is 264 the first time I ran it I was getting 8 out of the ro. After running for a while, it went up to 35. Rejection rate is “up to” 99%.  

I would ask BRS about that.  It does not seem like the number should go up after it settles in like that.

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4 hours ago, Muttley000 said:

I would ask BRS about that.  It does not seem like the number should go up after it settles in like that.

I did call them yesterday. They think it’s just the pump. They say going from 25 into the pump and getting 95 out is not supposed to happen. So I am sending the pump and power supply back to them. We will see what happens then. I asked if they needed to replace the ro membrane and they said no, it’s fine. But we will see what happens with this pump issue first. 

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These companies expecting you to go without product are a joke. I hope they aren’t making you pay shipping like some other companies some how get away with. 

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35 minutes ago, Jesse said:

These companies expecting you to go without product are a joke. I hope they aren’t making you pay shipping like some other companies some how get away with. 

:t1232: 

I’m having the same issue with a home theater unit in my theater room.  

Them: send it to our tech center in upper New York. 

Me: so I’m supposed to pack up a receiver and pay to ship it and if it’s damaged in shipping it’s my problem 

them: yes. 

Me: I paid for a working unit already, send me a new one and I’ll return the junk one in same packaging. 

:t1233:

Edited by Fishoutofwater

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On 6/21/2019 at 10:19 PM, Jesse said:

any updates?

Yes. They replaced the booster pump and it is now at 75 psi. I can handle that. Still not getting 0 tds water. So not they sent me a new meter to make sure the meter isn’t bad. Also got a bad pressure shut off valve so they sent me a new one of those too. They are really trying to make it right. But its been an aggravating process along the way. 

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