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Automated water changes


Karmann
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1 hour ago, Karmann said:

Cool, I have Apex junior, I may get one of the modules with the 4 I/O inputs for the two float switches.

For the pump I am thinking the Jebao DP4 or DP2 powered from the Apex.

You want something that you can calibrate. If not it won't ever takeout/input the same amounts all the time. 

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I would suggest the DOS or the spectrapure litermeter. I would personally go with the DOS bc I'm an apex fan boy and am already using a DOS for dosing 2 part. The litermeters have been around longer and have had great long term success. There is a company called genesis that makes an auto water change system. It seems like a great option as well, but don't know anyone personally using one. I think it's considerable more than the other two options.

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Cole Parmer and Stenner make multi head dosers that used to be avaliable with a way to adjust the pressure on the heads so you can dial them in exactly also.  So many ways to do things makes it hard to choose sometimes!  I have also been looking at the GHL dosing system.

Edited by Muttley000
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I would suggest the DOS or the spectrapure litermeter. I would personally go with the DOS bc I'm an apex fan boy and am already using a DOS for dosing 2 part. The litermeters have been around longer and have had great long term success. There is a company called genesis that makes an auto water change system. It seems like a great option as well, but don't know anyone personally using one. I think it's considerable more than the other two options.

Found quite few reviews of the Jebao dp4 failing, not worth the risk. I will plan on the DOS or the spectrapure. Thanks for the tip

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I had thought of buying some cheap power heads and hooking them up to some ATOs that were hooked up to timers.  That way they will only take out and re-fill to a certain level and will only do it once a day (assuming that you take the time to get the timers set up correctly, otherwise they may go off multiple times within the "change time").  You could also use an Apex or some other controller for the timer/float switches, however I don't recommend it.  (My Apex has scared me half to death every time I've let it control my ATO by not turning the pump off once it is activated, so I'm EXTREMELY paranoid about trusting it for anything other than timing.)

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  • 3 months later...
13 hours ago, hoaglanddiver said:

I've been doing auto water changes for yrs.. Prior to neptune coming out w/ the DOS pump.. I was relegated to this and am still using it: http://www.lockewell.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_6_30&zenid=2b80a25b7aac3bd416fe2cf53a0e311a

 

i then use the apex breakout box and floats..

Welcome to the forum!  Glad to have you here, I believe I used to see you at FWMAS when the forum there was still active.  This is not a bad way to go even now IMO, as I have always heard the Stenner units were bulletproof.  Would really enjoy seeing and hearing more on your system in an intro thread (hint, hint!)

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LOL mutley.. yes, that is me.. there is a FB page now for Fort Wayne Marine Aquatic Society.

you are welcomed to check out my auto water change anytime you wish.  I "should" be at the next FWMAS mtg slated for Sep 18(?).. maybe c u there.

in addition to the stenner pump, since I'm on a well and battle dissolved CO2 (which results in blowing thru DI resin), I now have 100g storage of RO water.  Once full, I aerate for 24 hrs, then pump thru DI into RODI storage.. then finally to saltwater storage.. I went from less than 100g per DI canister to over 800g (fairly new so I dont have a final figure on that)..  I will attempt an Intro Thread.. prolly not till end of Sep as I'm bogged down w/ work items.

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On 9/20/2016 at 0:15 AM, Biecacka said:

What is the difference between the 2 pumps shown in the Stenner magazine. The DM vs the DMP

 

Corey 

The letter "P"!!  LOL

Actually, it looks like the DM has an adjustable flow rate, where they DMP is fixed. Both are apparently 25 psi, though. 

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easier and way cheaper way is just use float switches or optic ones if you have those. Most of the free DIY controllers are going the way off ATO the easy way. When it is triggered the main pumps go off letting the water back fill in to the sump till it hits just below the high water float switch and you keep this usually connected to an alarm or some thing to tell you your sump is about to over flow. Then the water from the sump is pumped out to the drain till it gets to the sump low float then it stops. Then the new water is replaced till it hits a float that you set usually higher than your normal running float. You will need to replace the water in the tank and the water in the sump needs a minute or two to stabilize if there is a little water missing your RO water will kick in and fill it up the rest of the way. This can be done with a few 2 power heads and 3 float switches but don't try to use a junk china power head to run a drain line 15 foot it wont work and the back pressure will just flood on to the floor.

This is not my idea but it is a poor mans way ;)    

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